Button-piece for boots or shoes



(No Model.)

A. SHEA.

BUTTON PIECE FOR BOOTS 0R SHOES.

No. 380,731. Patented Apr. 1 0, 1888.

UNTTED STATES PATENT OEEicE,

ALBERT SHEA, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

BUTTON-PIECE FOR BOOTS OR SHOES.-

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 380,731, dated April 10, 1888.

Application filed January 18, 1888. Serial No. 526L08 (No model.)

To aZZ whmn it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ALBERT SHEA, of Boston, county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Button- Pieces for Boots or Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention has for itso'oject to provide a button-hole piece wherein the thrums and bar orstay-cord are bound down snugly against the under side of the button-hole piece.

In accordance with my present invention the thrums and bar or stay-cord are bound down to the under side of the buttonhole piece by means of the thread of a blindstitch made in the material at first one and then at the other side of the stay-cord, the needle entering the material and emerging from the same side thereof at a distance from the point where the needle entered the material and without passing through to the outer side of the buttonhole piece.

When stitching down the thrums and bar or stay-cord by a blind-stitch made in the material at right angles to the bar or stay and the button-hole piece applied to a sewing-machine, ithas to be bent sharply parallel to the bar or stay-cord and in line with the inner ends of the button-holes, which leaves in the material an objectionable crease; and, further, in such plan the thickness of the doubled material is such in leather-work that when the material is again laid out flat the seam so made, even when made as near as possible to the edge of the folded part and yet enter it, leaves a broad or extended line of stitches between the point where the needle entered and emerged from the material.

One object of this invention is to make the welt orridge, which may be designated the aceumulated bar or stay-cord, and thrums and overstitehing as narrow as possible.

In my present invention the button-hole piece need only be bent over a roll or bar parallel to the length of the button-hole,

Figure 1 represents the inner side of a button-hole piece embodying my invention; Fig. 2, an outer side view thereof; and Fig. 3, a modification showingaonethread blind-stitch, part of the button-hole piece being omitted.

The button-hole piece A, as shown, has a series of three button-holes, B, all of which are and may be overstitched, as at O, the overstitching at the under side of the button-hole piece embracing a bar or stay-cord, a. The threads b c, entering into the overstitching for the edge of the buttonhole and extending from one to the other button-hole, are called thrums.

The thru ms and stay-cord are herein shown as stitched down by a blind-stitch composed,

. as herein represented, of two threads, cf; but,

if desired, and as herein illustrated, but one thread may be employed.

Assuming the thread e, Fig. 1, to be carried by an eye-pointed needle and the threadfby a shuttle or bobbin, the thrums will be confined in the following manner, viz:

The material having been slightly bent, as when sewing straw braid, the bend being substantially parallel to the length of the buttonholes and at right angles to the length of the bar or stay-cord, the point of the eye-pointed needle will enter the inner side of the material at the point 1, .when the surface of the material is at that time convex, and will emerge from the same side of the material at the point 2, and the loop of needle-thread will then be entered by the shuttle orsecond thread, f, and the needle will be withdrawn from the material at the point 1, and at such time the needlethread will draw a short loop of the second thread, f, into the hole at the point 2. In this condition the material is moved in the direc tion of the arrow h thereon, or diagonally; or the needle may be moved in the opposite direction and the needle carrying the thread e will enter the material at the point 3 and will emerge from the same side thereof at the point 4. Prior to and during this thrust of the needle the material will be bent, as before de scribed, but at this time from near the point 3 to near the point 4:. During the movement of the material, as stated, so as to enable the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the material at one side of the bar or staycord, and to then enter and emerge from the material at the opposite side of the said bar or stay-cord, the needle-thread e is laid across the said bar or stay-cord and thrums, as be tween the points 4 and 3, and the .loop of needle-thread at the point 4 is again entered by the second thread, f; but to do this the said second thread has to pass across the bar or stay-cord and thrums from 2 to 4. After the loop of needle-thread formed at the point 4 has been entered by the second thread, 5 f,-the needle is withdrawn at the point 3, its

loop being held by the second thread, the material is again moved laterally, and also longitudinally, for another stitch, or in the direction of the arrow h, and the needle will be to again operated; but at this third operation the needle will enter the material at the point 5 and emerge from it at the point 6, and in so doing the needle-thread will be laid across the bar or stay-cord and thrums from 3 to 5, and the second thread to lock the loop of needlethread emerging atfiwillalso be carried across the bar or stay-cord and thrums from 4 to 6. In this way it will be seen that the stay-cord and thrums may be covered by a stitch made into the substance of the button-hole piece at opposite 'sides ofthe stay-cord, but not through the outer side of the material, and so, also, the direction of the movement through the material is parallel to the stay-cord.

The drawings show the points 2, 3, 4, 5, and

6 at some distance away from the stay-cord, so as to avoid confusion in the crossing threads; but in practice each thrust of the needle at each side the stay-cord willbe close to and so as to substantially touch the stay-cord.

In Fig. 3 I have shown the stitch to confine the stay-cord and thrunis as made from a single thread, as g. In this modification of my invention the needle will enter at 10, emerge at the same side, as at 11, a finger or looper will catch and hold the loop of needle-thread at 12, the needle will be withdrawn at 10, the material will be moved longitudinally and laterally to enable the needle to enter the material at 13, but at the opposite side of the staycord and thrulns, and emerge from the material at 14;, the needle at such time passing through the loop 12, when the loop 15 of thread carried by the needle through the loop 12 will be caught by a looper or finger, the needle will be withdrawn, and while the last loop, 15, formed by the needle is held the material will be again moved, so that the needle may enter the material at 16, but at the opposite side of the staycord and thrurns, emerging at, 17, and, passing through the old loop 15, have its new loop caught, and so on.

I do not herein claim the described method of stitching by which to secure the stay-cord and thrum ends, as the same forms the sub- 5 ject-matter of an application filed on the 24th day of March, 1888, Serial No. 268,321.

I claim- A button-hole piece having its bar or staycord and thrums confined to the inside of the button-hole piece by a blind-stitch composed of thread which enters and emerges from the button-hole piece at one and the same side Without showing at the face of the material, the said stitches being made in the material 6:, alternately at opposite sides the bar or staycord, the thread from one stitch made at one side the stay-cord in the direction of its length being carried across the stay-cord to the stitch made at the opposite side thereof in the direction of its length, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses.

ALBERT SHEA. Vitnesses:

BERNIOE J. NoYns, B. DEWAR. 

